Barbecue

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The English summer being what it is, one might paraphrase Confucius and say that there are few pleasures to compare with watching an old friend hunched over the barbecue, under an umbrella, as the hail lashes down. Ideally observed, of course, from shelter. As to what is being pushed around over the coals, one could do very much worse than consult Barbecue: Where There's Smoke There's Flavour by Eric Treuille and Birgit Erath, a very sophisticated and cosmopolitan collection of recipes. Treuille and Erath have trawled the world for their flavours, to impressive effect. They begin with an armoury of seasonings and marinades: Carolina Honey Glaze, Achiote Seasoning (Mexico), Charmoula (North Africa) and Spicy Tandoori Mix are particularly good examples. A chapter of meat recipes deals with beef, pork and lamb--the last perhaps the most perfect barbecue food; others cover seafood, chicken, vegetables (including a handful of interesting grilled fruit ideas). All the recipes are vivid, tasty and, insofar as this is possible with grilled food, elegant. Sensibly, and for obvious reasons, they are all given in outdoor and indoor versions. A final pair of chapters offers collections of sauces and salsas, and salads and side dishes. Really a very distinguished compilation, put together with great skill, style and flair. As one would expect from Dorling Kindersley, it is a visual feast as well. --Robin Davidson